The core four
Since I was a kid, watches have meant more to than makes any damn sense. Is it the design (art major for a mother) or the mechanics (engineer major for a father)? Sitting here now, with 47 orbits under my belt, I still flail about for an answer that feels satisfying.
Things started with a quartz Citizen Chronograph that was far too big for my 12 year old wrist. I remember just staring at the dial and marveling at the details and all the cool stuff it could do. I had a handful of “kid watches” for a while and then they faded away as girls and mischief took hold of my attention. Fast forward to my 30’s, and find myself working on a freelance website project for a pal who is a jeweler. We agreed that he could pay me with a watch and I poured over his catalogs for days STRUGGLING to select the right one. I chose a Victorinox 24147 and I loved it the moment I closed the buckle under my wrist. Just the right size, heft and aesthetic I had hoped for. The applied markers looked fancy as SHIT and I delighted in turning it over and showing the movement to a politely interested wife and young kids. I wore it for the next two days and it made me feel like damn cool dude. Then it was my father’s birthday, and I put the watch back into its box, wrapped it up and gave it to him.
Honestly, at the time I couldn’t really answer why I did that. I think we all try to connect with our loved ones in different ways, and sharing something I loved with him was my way of reaching out. He was not actually a watch wearing guy…and certainly not a watch this size and style. Nevertheless, he wore it every day for many years (under the wrist like his military father did). Then it needed a service and he gave it back to me.
Raising a young family meant it was a couple years before I replaced that Victorinox, and now I had to pay for it with real money. Despite my concerns over the small 38mm case, I decided a black dial Seiko SNK was the right watch…and really all that I could sensibly afford without causing the wrong kind of marital excitement. Over time, jobs improved and I was able to slice off a thin slice of a bonus to step into a “real watch” with a Seiko SK007.
In an interesting side quest, I melted the CRAP out of the dial and movement charging it under an unstable desk lamp before bed one evening. The case went on to be used for a Seiko Modification project on a podcast and came back to life and continues being an awesome watch to this day.
That really got me started on the long slow process of learning, saving, and trading that watch nerds are all familiar with. Odd experimental movements from the 70’s before everything was powered by crystals really drew me in, and I passed a few Seiko Elnix and Bulova tuning fork models over my wrist. I had a Rodina R005(Chinese-made Nomos Tangente knock-off that got a lot of compliments when I wore it). Saved and scraped for a Maratac Pilot watch that I was able to get customized with a red crown by Mike at CountyComm. Tried out a handful of established small brands (Halios, Visitor, Lorier, Raven). Traded a vintage Swiss chronograph that I got from a dealer in Cypress with a guy in Malmo, Sweden for a watch designed by a guy in Indiana (Visitor Duneshore). We all know the drill…and the fun of it all.
The watch finds the wrist, Harry
This evening I sized the bracelet on my blue dial Lorier Gemini for my son’s close friend. I bought that watch as a celebration of 100 days sober, but it spent 99% of its life in the case. It is now in a better home that will appreciate it properly…and I think that is awesome.
[HEAD SMACK!] Writing this out tonight is the first time I have honestly realized that I have been giving these things away from the very fucking start…no idea what the means…some fresh material for therapy I suppose.
Over the years I gave my father a couple more watches, but they never really stuck with him. I realized that I was giving him what I loved, not what he did. Realizing this, I went on a quest searching for the perfect ultra thin, quartz powered rectangle cased Seiko Dolce and found it through an Australian Instagram account. Paired it with a dressy-ish black rubber strap (our genetically oily skin destroys leather). It was the least costly watch I ever gave him and it was the one he will wear for the rest of his life. He adores/ed it.
I started to write this post because I realized that after 20 years of learning, watching and growing I had 4 watches that really highlight what I love about this very personal pursuit. The writing took its own turn and now I don’t know how to make an elegant transition so…
/ / / RECORD SCRATCH / / /
Family & Tradition
Blancpain Leman Dual Time – Limited edition 227/333, white gold, exhibition caseback
This was my grandfather’s watch that I became the caretaker of after my cousin decided that it would be better with me than sitting in a box at his house doing nothing. Getting it serviced was an adventure..water damage, supply chain issues, the Swiss, etc. 1000% worth the effort and cost. I treasure it immensely, and the white gold markers make disco sparkles on the headliner of my car when I wear it while driving on sunny days. #party-trick
Function Focused Design
Mühle Glashütte S.A.R. Rescue-Timer
I have loved this watch since the moment I read about it when ablogtowatch.com was ablogtoread.com. The complete lack of sharp edges to get snagged on anything, the insanely thick crystal that has the magnifier ground on the INSIDE so it won’t be damaged when material is dragged across the face…all of it. There really is nothing like it out there. I had a work event that worked out financially and I used a small portion of that money to buy this watch for myself. It was pre-owned (as are all my watches, but one) but still the most costly watch purchase I had ever made. I wear this for EVERYTHING. Yard work, bike rides, painting the house, woodworking. It is a next level “beater” and continues to keep perfect time.
Cultural History
Speedy Pro ref. 310.30 .42.50.01.001
The greater taper on the new bracelet makes this wear like a dream, and I am really pleased I ended up with the non-sapphire version. This is my daily wear watch, and I use the chronograph function far more than I expected. Cooking, waiting in line for TSA crap…there are seemingly endless chances to time shit. I think that this watch has more cultural relevance for Americans than anything else out there and I absolutely love it.
Horological Design
Octo Finissimo Automatic Black Ceramic ref. 103077
Some months back I was visiting my parents to fart around and spend time together. My father’s cancer wore him out quickly and while he rested I would drive around with my mother doing errands and saying stuff like
“Remember when they filmed that scene for Home Alone there.”
“That used to be a Walgreens.”
Etc.
During one of those fart-around adventures we went into every watch shop within 30 minutes of us looking for a strap for my grandpa’s watch (her dad). Our strap acquisition mission was a failure, but we both simply enjoyed spending time together. I loved having the chance to see some dream watches in real life, and my mom seemed to enjoy watching me “talk shop” with the salespeople. I think she saw that this wasn’t just a material pursuit for me, but something more meaningful than that. Most of my visits since have included some time farting around in watch shops.
Ahead of another visit, my mom texted me that she had new shop for us to check out. This really meant a lot me. All kids find to awesome it when a parent is excited about something of theirs…no matter their age. Burdeens Jewelry turned out to be the most amazing Watch Spectacle® I had ever seen. They had a massive pre-owned inventory and were Authorized Dealers for a HUGE number of brands. I was a precocious child, flitting about struggling to take it all in.
It was a shock to find that they had a pre-owned Cartier Calibre De Cartier in stock. For a VERY short time Cartier made an out of character ISO Certified dive watch, and I was legitimately shocked to see it in real life. Michelle, from Burdeens, happily pulled it from the case for me to try on…and it didn’t fit my wrist nearly as well as I had hoped. My dreams and reality failed to align and I was a little defeated, but Michelle was not. Soon we were moving through the store wrapping my dream watch bucket list around my wrist over and over. I was spinning.
Side Note: When I visit watch shops alone, I never ask to try things on. With my mom, it is different…more social and fun.
I was hovering an inch above the shock-resistant floor by the time we arrived at the Bulgari alcove. I don’t know how I would even define “Grail Watch” but this would have to be whatever that is for me. The Octo Finissimo is not only the thinnest automatic movement in the world, but the flamboyant architectural design presents this amazing engineering achievement with Genta-eque style and attitude. The freshly released satin & polished steel version felt like a sparkly snake skin and I gazed at it soaking in the experience. Michelle agreed that it fit really well
“That is a great watch, but you don’t seem to be that “bling-ey”
-gesturing to my jeans, black t-shirt and bright Yellow Mister Happy Stan Smiths–
“What about this one?”
Then she pulled out the totally blacked out ceramic version. Even setting aside the additional cost of this model, I never considered this. Even in my dreams I am “practical” and this was just so…crazy. I put it on.
“Fuck”
It was perfect.
We left the store with a head of memories and empty hands, despite Michelle’s skillful efforts. The next day I flew home to Dallas where I proceed to consume every single review and comment about the Black Ceramic Octo Finissimo I could find.
Time again found me in Chicago for hospice meetings and setting up their house for what was to come. The meeting in the morning was as emotionally penetrating as you would think. Dad rested afterwards, and Mom and I went out on a mission to get him a TV and stand for his room. Soon, his trip to the den was not going to happen. Getting back home around dinner time, I decided now wasn’t the time to show my mom how to use the grill for the first time. That was just too much.
“Mom, you probably haven’t been to a restaurant in a really long time. Let me take you out for dinner”
She paused..tears..big hug from a tiny lady. She hadn’t.
A place nearby served chicken enchiladas that she loved, and I got a French Dip. We chatted and snacked on some bread with melted feta while both tried to process the day behind and the ones in front. My phone buzzed with a text from an amazing new job opportunity that I glanced at. After months of interviews and excitement they had decided to not move forward with the position for me. I decided to keep that to myself, but 30 seconds later my mom asked “Hey, how is the new job thing going? Did you hear anything back yet?” I wasn’t going to lie to her, and we both just kind of stared at the table quietly.
“Damn. I’m so sorry, Ethan”
The food came, and we both ate for distraction and hunger. A few bites in, I noticed she was really working to cut the chicken in her Enchiladas and the gristle in my sandwich was not making for the nice meals we had hoped for.
Sitting in the car afterwards we were laughing at the total turd-parade the day had been and she said,
“We didn’t even get to go to any watch shops”
I pulled out my phone to check what our options were
“Burdeens is actually still open for another 40 minutes”
“Screw it! Let’s go buy you that watch.”
That is how we arrived at Burdeens as they were closing. My mom had called ahead to ask them to stay open a little longer for us.
“What timepiece are you interested in?”
“The black ceramic Octo Finissimo”
“Oh… We will have it ready when you get here. No problem at all. Take your time”
We were ushered into the store with much of the staff buzzing around packing away the merchandise for the evening. I could see the big Bulgari presentation box from across the store and resting beside it in a cream colored velvet tray was something that still didn’t feel real. I was in a semi-conscious state for the next 10 minutes. The bracelet was sized for my wrist, my mom tested how much she could run on her card before getting a call from the bank and then we were out the door and driving home in her CRV that needed an oil change and new tires.
For me this watch is a beautiful symbol of life, death and the unexpected joys in between.
Oh, and it is cool as shit.
P.S.
This weekend was my 23rd anniversary and as we pulled away from the house to go ax-throwing and have a dinner date my wife said “We should just get tattoos tonight. We keep talking about it…we should just DO IT.” It took me a while to figure out what my tattoo would be…once I did, I knew it was perfect. Time is set to the moment I was born and the design is based off of the Octo Finissimo that means even more to me now at the end of writing this all out than it did just a short while ago.
